Chanel lengthens the silhouette and bets on the plane on an autumnal catwalkBy Blair Morris
January 18, 2020
Chanel today closed Fashion Week in Paris by recreating a spectacular autumn landscape inside the Grand Palais, conquered by the “forest wizards” of the house, who wore coats to the feet and wore only flat shoes.
In recent seasons, sports and dancers have conquered the foot of the international catwalks, leaving behind the idea that the heel is the only synonym of elegance, as Chanel already showed, whose proposal for last year’s low-heeled boots with glitter or transparent was a commercial success.
On this occasion, the house opted for oxford shoes, in black patent leather, and a series of musketeer boots with golden toe worn on a dark background or in a discrete pattern, similar to camouflage but also bright.
The silhouette becomes completely straight, by coats and skirts in “tweed” to the feet, combined with short jackets, in a series of very winter outfits, decorated with large wool scarves, sleeves of hair and woolen sweaters.
Still, the collection was much more youthful than in other occasions thanks to the introduction of floral prints, matching a set so achieved that in the huge entrance of this building next to the Seine River, famous for its glass roof, smelled of earth wet, as some guests commented.
The ground was full of fallen leaves and several trees populated with wet moss divided the walkway in two, in a harmonious result of autumn colors: dark greens, grays, and blacks mingled with golds, beiges, browns, and oranges.
The designer and emblem of the house, the German Karl Lagerfeld, also introduced several technical pieces, such as down jackets – so in vogue in recent seasons – that entered the firm in a “tweed” version, or revisiting the classic straight jackets of the House in this waterproof fabric with a quilted appearance.
A pseudo-masculine collection, loaded with hooded garments, high-waisted pants and wide leg in bright mermaid fabrics, where a disheveled top bun culminated a styling, in general, quite natural, also in makeup.
The proposal closed with a series of black dresses cut 20 years, with a straight neckline and long above the knees or ankle height, combined with accessories fluorine, such as fuchsia pink gloves and leather maxibolsos and embroidery, which They led to handbag mode.
In the cast of models, there was no lack of Kaia Gerber, the daughter of Cindy Crawford, who has been devastating for three seasons in Paris; in addition to the Dutch Marjan Jonkman, the French Camille Hurel and the Italian Greta Varlese and Vittoria Ceretti, some of the most requested of the moment.
The model Caroline de Maigret, the image of the house, and the British actress Keira Knightley, who wore an Haute Couture dress from the Spring-Summer 2018 collection, were some of Chanel’s guests.
The performer of films like “Pirates of the Caribbean” or “Anna Karenina” came along with her husband, the musician James Righton.
Paris says goodbye to this Fashion Week, where more than 60 companies presented on the catwalk their prêt-à-porter collections for autumn-winter 2018/2019, closing the cycle of international catwalks behind London, New York, and Milan.
With a nine-day agenda, where the parades are held every hour, the capital of France prevails among its competitors as the longest appointment and meeting point of international buyers and journalists who, according to the French Fashion Institute, leave as it passes through the city between 400 and 500 million euros (from 492 to 615 million dollars).